FTV Review

Dublin, Ireland

The international borders are really dissipating in the fashion world today. The scene has become a real global village and nobody personifies that spirit more than John Rocha, who in Dublin is a true international figure on the fashion scene.
John Rochas showed in Paris for the first time this season alluring the likes of Irish popster Sinead O'Connor to his runway. But Rocha's heart belongs to Dublin, where he's lived since 1978. Ten years ago he teamed up with Odette his wife and muse. Together they run their design business, selling their label around the world.
Jeanne Beker: "You're such an international figure. Your father is Portuguese, your mother Chinese. You come from Hong Kong, schooled in London. And end up living in Dublin. Now you're showing in Paris."

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John Rochas: "Yes, I think it's confusing for people. What am I? Don't ask me, just call me John and stop at that."
If you live in Ireland you don't have the street fashion like you do in London, Paris or New York. There you're surrounded by fashion, here fashion is not an initial impact, so you develop your own identity."
JB: "Did you feel at home the first time you came to Ireland?"
JR: This is where I belong. When I was in Hong Kong I was in the boy scouts, and we used to go camping. Hong Kong is like a concrete jungle. This is so relaxing, and I took to it like a duck to water."
JB: What about the people? They seem laid back and friendly."
JR: " Yes, people talk to you on the street and it's still very much that way."
JB: One of Ireland's best known filmakers, Jim Sheridan is making a documentary about you. How did that happen?"
JR: Jim came to me at the factory, and wanted to know something about fashion for his next movie. He got talking to me, how I got started . He didn't realise I was from Hong Kong, and about my parents. After about his sixth cup of coffee, he said he'd like to make a documentary about me. It's not about fashion, it's about a little Chinese man from Hong Kong, who lives in Dublin. Who just happens to make clothes."

(Jim Sheridan is best known for his work as producer and director of the film "My Left Foot".)

Paris - Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier recently staged a theatrical extravaganza when he presented his new mass-market collection.

Kennon Earl Buyer :"The show was like what John Paul imagines Paris should look like. It was beautiful, with all the scenery. The perfect world is in John Paul Gaultier's eyes."

Jean Paul Gaultier: "It was the idea of being in a city. What can you do in the city? Everybody wants to live in that city. You can dance, you can eat. You can even have a shower. (Some of his models were taking showers.) So I wanted to show what I liked in the city."

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Walter de Costa - Fashion designer: "It's really street fashion, and he's not the only one doing it. It really is a pity, because now a lot of designers use street fashion, and sometimes I think they really don't have a feeling for it. But it's still great fashion."

The main reason Gaultier launched his new collection was money. Although he's always attracted lots of fashion fans, many were arty types unable to afford his steep price tags. While some of his followers might consider this show's unconventional industry surroundings as a sell-out, it's just become apparent that the bad boy of fashion would rather be a businessman than a starving artist.
JPG: It's a line that is supposed to be very commercial. It is not intended for the elite. So I want it to be part of the industry, because I am some way part of it."

Further evidence of Gaultier's growing business acumen came two weeks later in New York city where he launched his new perfume called "Jean Paul Gaultier" at a celebrity-studded party.

Linda Wells: Editor-in-chief, Allure magazine : He knows how to sell things and how to make things so beautifully. I think the quality of his clothes is fantastic. And with this fragrance he pokes fun at the notion of these designer perfumes with his bottle that's held in a can. It looks like it could be soup or peas with the label peeled off. And still it is beautiful and wantable and still has quality with it."
Jeanne Beker: "Tell us about the perfume "Jean Paul Gaultier"."
JPG: "What can I say? It smells good. There is a smell of nail varnish remover and vanilla. I did it so people smell eatable when you put on the perfume."
Amy Spindler NY Times, Fashion columnist : Jean Paul Gaultier is always irreverant. He is knowledgable about what women want. And if he says they want nail varnish remover, I believe it."

Like many designers, Gaultier is selling more than just clothes and perfume. He is selling his image. His quirky and likeable personality is probably his best seller.

Lauren Bacall: "In Paris, there are people that snipe at others, but nobody makes any negative remarks about him. They all think he has tremendous talent, and he does. He's proved it."
Ru Paul: "He's always surprising us and that's what wonderful. That's what we expect from him. Designers keep myths alive and remind us about what is beautiful. And Jean Paul's done a wonderful job of that."

Paco Rabanne in Paris

Nowadays, leading designers are incorporating metals and other maleable material into their clothing. Paco Rabanne of scrapyard couture has done this in his fall collection.

Paco Rabanne: "For thirty years I've been using metal and paper. When I see other designers using the same medium, it excites me, it forces me to go on."
Paco Rabanne's make-up artist: Every guy has his idea of what he wants a model to look like. Paco has his own idea of what he thinks a beautiful woman should look like. He has his own vision."
Katy Jean Louis Model : It's not difficult to move in the dresses. A dress is a dress. Some of them you wouldn't stand around in for hours and hours, they're just nice for showing. It's couture."
Jean Berthet Hatmaker : "The hat is an expression - a question mark. When you dot an 'i' in a Paco Rabanne collection you must go beyond the ordinary because if you play it safe, why are you even there?"

PR: "I often think of myself as a sculptor - to take the body of a woman and cover it. To make a woman beautiful, there are sometimes technical problems that are very hard to solve."

Jeanne Bekker appeared on "the Late Late Show" in Ireland, which also airs in England during the day. Jeanne takes her place on the stage and told the audience:
"I'm most excited to be invited on the show because I was one of the judges in Dublin, for the Smirnoff Fashion Awards. And that's why we're here in Ireland covering those awards."
For ten years, Smirnoff International Fashion Awards has showcased the work of some of the best student designers. This year's theme was "Altered Image". Thirty finalists from around the world tried their best to take fashion one step beyond the conventional.

One creation from Japan, was made from tiny pieces of cardboard all strung together. It gave a beadwork effect which resulted in an amazing creation.

One designer, Kelvin Feeney from Ireland, was inspired after a party in a science park. His creation was a skirt made up from seat belts.
Blanka Lipinska: It was fun but very hard work. Everything had to be hand sewn, but all in all, the process was fascinating. A discovery through action.
Blanka's collection included a latex top. Her main garment was made from old powder puffs.
Joe Hayford Judge : " My head is spinning. I'm overwhelmed. I've seen so many interesting designs. This year has been better than any before. The standard seems to be getting better. And what's good, is that people are designing things on an international level rather than parochial."

The award went to Hiroyuki Sakaki from Japan. About winning the award he said:
"I'm very happy. I'm very relieved. But inside I feel hot and ready to explode."