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Working with Make-Up

These tips are extracted from the brochure "Secrets from Max Factor International's Make-Up Artist Brochure" by Christan Burran. The brochure is - as you'd expect - based around their products; we've left in commercial references only where we think appropriate. If you'd like your own brochure in real-life colour hard copy, you can obtain one by writing to the address at the end of the article.

Step 1: "Must-Have" Products

  • Concealer
    • When choosing a concealer that's right for you, look for a brand that offers a wide range of shades and provides undetectable coverage, and blends easily for a natural look. Pick one in a clear tube so you know exactly what shade you're buying.
  • Foundation
    • The bright lights of a photo-shoot necessitate the right foundation to create a natural-looking finish. This also applies to everyday make-up as well, so you need a foundation that's right for your skin type. Many folks have combination skin, so try to choose a foundation that helps balance the dry and oily areas for a consistent, even finish.
  • Sponges
    • Using sponges to apply make-up can be considered one of the tricks of the trade according to Christan Burran. They're a must for blending concealer and foundation because the spread the product evenly, ensuring the best possible coverage.
  • Blusher
    • Blush is the quickest and easist way to balance and brighten the face with color. Finding a blush that blends well is key. Find a product that's easy to blend and provides a wide colour range for sheer, natural coverage.
  • Mascara
    • The mascara brush is extremely important as it has to lift and separate the lashes while applying the mascara. A criss-cross brush can do this, stretching the lashes to their limit by applying the formula from base to tips of the lashes.
  • Lipstick
    • Long lasting lipstick formulations can be a blessing in many situations, especially on photo shoots or situations where re-applying is a hassle. Use one which mosturizes and conditions as well as colouring.

Step 2: How To Choose The Right Shades

How do you figure the right colour palette for yourself? It doesn't have to be confusing; follow these simple guidelines:

Foundation and Concealer Shades

  • Go to the store with a naked face (no foundation) and test shades on face and neck.
  • Pick a shade closest to your natural complexion. You'll know this because the right shade should blend in so well it almost disappears on your skin. (Most women should try to balance skin with a yellow-tone foundation shade.)
  • Stay away from a light shade that can wash out your complexion or too dark a shade that's easily detectable. (Use a tinted powder if you desire more colour.)
  • Select a concealer shade one shade lighter than your foundation to brighten the eye area. Never go too light because the dark circles will show through.

Eyeshadow Shades

  • If you never wear eyeshadow, try a neutral rose-tone shade over the entire eye to help brighten your eyes.
  • If you always wear matte browns, try a brown with a shimmer, or even try a plum or burgundy-tone shadow.
  • To help define eyes, use a dark shade of shadow along the crease and lash line.
  • Most women can wear any shade of eyeshadow if blended correctly, but stay away from wearing the same shade as your eye colour.
  • If you use a neutral-tone shadow, try mixing a slightly darker shade at crease.

Lipstick Shades

  • Lip colour balances the rest of your make-up, so you should always consider wearing it.
  • Choose shades that complement your clothes and hair colour. If you usually don't wear lipstick, opt for natural shades that are quick and easy to apply.
  • Bright colours are the hardest to wear. If you like them, try sheer versions that give a tint of colour to lips.
  • Experiment! Don't be afraid to mix lip colours to find a perfect shade.

Step 3: Selecting The Right Make-Up Tools

The first thing a make-up artist learns is that the right tools are essential when applying and blending make-up. It's the difference between okay make-up and perfect make-up.

Since Max Factor were nice enough to supply us with the material for this article, we'll let the references to their products stand in this section.

Tools Right At Your Fingertips

Line lips with High Definition Lip Definer, then use the opposite end to apply and blend lip colour with brush tip.
Line eyes with High Definition Kohliner, then soften line with attached smudger tip.
Apply and blend eyeshadow with compact sponge applicator tip available in all High Definition Eyeshadows.
Lengthen and separate lashes with STRETCH Mascara's criss-cross brush.
Groom and set brows with the brush of Max Factor's Brow Tamer.
Apply and blend Silk Perfection Liquid to Powder make-up with custom sponge that comes with compact.

The Importance of Blending

The importance of blending make-up can't be overemphasized. Make-up that's improperly blended looks harsh and undefined.

Here are some key areas to blend:

  • Foundation at hairline, jawline, and neck.
  • Eyeliner and eyebrow pencil.
  • Eyeshadow at crease and brow bone.
  • Blush along apples of cheeks and upwards to cheekbones.
  • Lip liner before applying lip colour.

Step 4: Perfecting Make-Up

Face

Apply concealer with finger tips around entire eye, including lid and inner corner of nose; blend inward against fine lines.

Apply foundation with sponge in outward strokes at hairline, temples, forehead and entire eye area.

For remainder of face, apply in downward, sweeping strokes, blending out foundation all the way to neck area.

Allow foundation to dry slightly and finish with a dusting of translucent powder over entire face and neck area.

Eyes

Using sponge tip applicator or angled brow brush, fill in brow with brown powder, then groom and set brows with brush.

Apply one base colour of shadow over entire lid.

User darker shade in crease and as an eye liner, blend out with applicator.

Finish with mascara by holding wand horizontally.

Look straight ahead as you apply at base of lashes working outward, emphasizing outer lashes.

For lower lashes, stroke wand tip across lash line.

Blush

Smile as you apply blush to apples of cheeks with a big brush in a circular motion.

Blend outward with brush along cheekbones.

Lips

Outline lips with high definition liner.

Blend out pencil line and fill in lips by applying lip colour with brush.

The brochure which provided the source material for us is "Secrets from Max Factor International's Make-Up Artist Brochure". It is available by sending a self-addressed, stamped business envelope to:

Max Factor International Make-Up Artist Brochure
30 East 60th Street
Suite 1400
New York, NY 10022, USA




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