The Premier Collections, Birmingham, England

I got a chance to visit the Premier Collections this week. Originally a womanswear exhibition, this was the fifth year for the show and is growing rapidly. This season there were over 2,000 collections on display. It was estimated that over 30,000 visitors would enter the doors, yours truly making it 30,001.

Womenswear

As I toured the halls I was on the lookout for some new and interesting ideas. There were lots of knitted outfits, not surprising as the exhibitors were showing their Autumn/Winter ranges. Fluffy angora and chenille in pale pinks and blues were prevalent. One company caught my imagination as I flicked through the catalogue -'Knitted Dogs'. I just had to check out their stand. They specialise in knitted garments in mohair and chenille inspired by the orient. The name of the company truly describes their designs.

It was a treat to see an old favourite of mine at the show - Benny Ong. I know Benny's work from the seventies, his clothes have always been beautifully cut with a simple elegance, and become classics in your wardrobe. I have an evening suit of his, that I bought in '74, which I modernise from year to year by changing the bottom half or adding new accessories.
When I visited his stand, he was about to do an interview, I had a quick word with him. I asked if he remembered the house he was designing for in the seventies. Was it Zany or City Streets I asked. He wasn't sure, he designed for many houses in those days and it was a long time ago. He cheekily went on to suggest it was about time I bought a new outfit.

Hmmm...

The" New Length" doesn't seem to have caught the enthusiasm of British designers as it has in New York, The A-line mini and micro skirt is still very favoured in the majority of the collections.

Directions for Womenswear

Corduroy, synthetic fabrics, blended mixes, luxurious and unexpected fabric combinations
Comfort
Flattering layering in knitted outfits
New feminine silouhette with classic tailoring
Soft, subltle colours - brown as an alternative to black

Another old favourite, Janet Reger, the ultimate in glamorous undies. Around about Christmas, I used to just happen to pass her counter at Rackhams with my boyfriend. This season Janet has gone clean-cut, the only decoration being narrow lace edging entwined with ribbon. Her pieces are mainly in stretch lace and lycra, in colours pink, oyster and navy blue.
For Autumn and Winter, lingerie lines are much the same as last Spring and Summer. The glamour revival still features strongly. Smooth, easy fabrics are comfortable in bright and bold colours. The latest fabrics ensure that lingerie of the future will fit superbly and be very comfortable. Shapes are retro 40's, 50's. Panties ranged from thongs to tap pants. Bras are available for the 16 + women, showing that manufacturers are taking into account the larger women.

Directions for lingerie

Thermal fabrics used in intresting ways
The return of 40's and 50's styling
Corsetry
Comfort in styling
Colour combinations of soft pastels and sexy dark colours

Nothing in the show looked new to me. Still lots of black, navy and brown for men and women. The exception being evening wear, with eye-catching colour combinations, palest pales contrasting darkest darks. One favourite combination of mine was from an American house JAB. They showed a purple evening dress with a very flouncy skirt edged in mint green. A mouthwatering combination.

Directions for Evening Wear

Rich luxurious fabrics
Opulent layering
Palest pales contrasting with dark bold colours
Longer lengths

Menswear

The entire spectrum of menswear was covered at the show, from classic through casual.
A style suited to the older man is the New Bohemian, a look inspired by Eastern Europe. A relaxed, deconstructed city style, giving a slightly dishevelled look, a la Donald Sutherland, with clothes that need little care. Layers of fine knit sweaters, longer length shirts, corduroy trousers, deconstructured suit jackets, all topped by a duster length coat. The main fabrics for the season are fine angora, silk and cashmere. Also corduroy for added interest.

For the younger guys, a kind of rebel in a suit look, taking a cue from the Teds and Rockers of the fifties, but with a nineties twist. Suits in two and three pieces with narrow shoulders and lapels. Jackets in a longer length and trousers with turn-ups. Skinny rib sweaters worn over shirts left untucked.
Some of the collections were inspired by the military, a customised surplus look, with belted jackets and waiscoats, tailored uniform style. Layering still featured in these collections with heavier sweaters. The fabrics are what you would expect...canvas, corduroys and tweeds. The essential colours are blue,greys, and olive greens.

Directions for Menswear

Fabrics with a superior handle
Sharp suits and sophisticated leisurewear
Rich dark colour accented by vivid colours
Layering - long shirts worn under shorter jumpers/waistcoats
New jacket lengths